OUTLET / SWITCH REPAIR
Dead outlets, intermittent switches, scorched receptacles, GFCI that will not reset. Repaired at the source, licensed.
Keil Electric repairs outlets and switches across San Diego County and the Austin metro. Common scopes: dead receptacles from backstabbed connections, switches that fail intermittently, scorched outlets from overloaded equipment, GFCI receptacles that will not reset, and three-way switches that no longer track.
Same scope on either side. Pick the shop that covers your area and we will route you to the right crew.
Outlets and switches sold for the last forty years have a "backstab" termination option where the conductor is pushed into a small hole on the back of the device. The hole grips the wire with a small metal tab. Over years of thermal cycling, the tab loosens. Once it loosens, the connection arcs. Once it arcs, the device chars and fails. The fix is to re-terminate under the screw.
A GFCI that will not reset is doing one of three things: detecting a real ground fault somewhere downstream, a failed GFCI mechanism in the device itself, or a wiring error (line and load reversed at install). We isolate which one is the cause and repair accordingly.
Three-way switches that "stop tracking" (a light no longer responds correctly to either switch) are usually a single bad device or a miswired traveler. We test each switch and the wiring topology, identify the failure, and replace or rewire.
A scorched device is the visible end of an arcing connection. We replace the device, inspect the box for char damage, check the wire ends for heat damage, and clean up the conductor before re-terminating. If the box itself is damaged, we replace the box too.
You describe the symptom (dead, intermittent, scorched, GFCI tripping) and we arrive prepared.
We test the device, the circuit, and the GFCI mechanism to confirm what is failing.
Replace the device, re-terminate the conductors under screws, and clean up any heat damage.
Restore power and verify the circuit holds under the original load condition.
Not every job requires a permit. When the local AHJ requires one, we pull it, schedule the inspection, and stay with the job until it passes. No paperwork on you.
Written warranty: 5-year on outlets, fixtures, and EV chargers; 10-year on wire and breakers; lifetime on panelboxes and surge protection. Parts and labor. Transfers with the home.
A scorched or warm outlet is a fire risk. Stop using the receptacle and any equipment plugged into it. We diagnose whether the device or the circuit is the failure.
Real work from our San Diego and Austin shops. Same standards, same warranty, every job.
For outlet and switch repair, here's the honest comparison. We'd tell you the same thing if we weren't trying to win the job.
Most outlet and switch repair calls fall into one of three patterns: a single component failed and the symptom is obvious, a slowly degrading connection finally tripped or stopped working, or a previous repair (yours, a handyman, or a prior contractor) was never quite correct and the underlying issue surfaced again. If the symptom involves smoke, sparks, burning smell, or a panel that is hot to the touch, do not wait. Call the local shop. Active hazards get same-day dispatch when capacity allows. Routine repairs go on the next-available slot, usually inside the same week.
The first 20 to 30 minutes is observation and diagnosis: walk the symptom with you, check the panel for related issues, trace the affected circuit, identify the actual root cause rather than the easy answer. Most outlet and switch repair issues sit somewhere other than where the symptom shows up (lights flicker because of a loose connection at the panel, an outlet stops working because of a backstab failure on the next outlet downstream). The diagnostic is the actual job, the price reflects that. We write the scope after the diagnosis, not before.
Outlet and switch repair is high-volume work. We touch dozens of devices a week between both shops, and the failure modes are surprisingly consistent. Most of the work is undoing the consequences of an earlier shortcut: a backstabbed device, a missed neutral, a wire-nut that was twisted but not screwed down, a GFCI installed with line and load reversed.
Most common causes: a tripped breaker on the circuit, a tripped GFCI upstream, a backstabbed connection that has loosened, a failed device, or a downstream fault. We test in that order to find the actual cause.
GFCI trips when current goes to ground somewhere on the circuit. Common causes: a faulted appliance, water in an outdoor receptacle, a faulted GFCI device itself, or wiring error (line and load reversed). We isolate the cause systematically.
You can in most jurisdictions. We do not recommend it without a tester. Replacing a backstabbed outlet without a circuit tester risks recreating the same failure or wiring it incorrectly. A licensed electrician brings the right test gear.
Most single-outlet repairs are completed quickly. The price depends on whether the box is also damaged and whether GFCI or AFCI replacement is required. We quote in writing.
A warm outlet means resistance, which means a loose connection arcing inside the device or box. That is a fire risk. Stop using the outlet, unplug whatever is in it, and call us.
Tell us what is happening and a licensed electrician diagnoses the failure, repairs the device, and tests the circuit. Fixed-price quote.
