Lighting
Recessed lighting, ceiling fans, outdoor and landscape lighting, and fixture installation across both Keil Electric locations.
Lighting installation at Keil Electric covers interior fixture installation, recessed lighting, ceiling fans with light kits, outdoor lighting, and landscape lighting. Each install starts with the fixture's mounting support, existing wiring, control plan (switch, dimmer, smart controls), and exterior exposure where applicable.
Same scope on either side. Pick the shop that covers your area and we will route you to the right crew.
Lighting Installation covers a few different jobs that look similar from the outside but are quite different in scope, cost, and timeline. Here is the version that helps you walk into the call already pointed at the right one. We will confirm or correct on the phone.
If you are planning the kind of work this covers, Keil Electric installs ceiling fans across San Diego County and the Austin metro. We confirm or upgrade the ceiling box to fan-rated, run new wiring where required (separate fan and light controls), terminate to the fan, and balance the blades. Smart fan and remote-control integration available. Read the full ceiling fan installation page.
If you are planning the kind of work this covers, Keil Electric installs outdoor lighting across San Diego County and the Austin metro. Path lights, low-voltage landscape lighting, wall packs, soffit downlighting, dock lights, security floods, and photocell or motion-controlled exterior fixtures. Wet-location rated, weather-sealed, and code-compliant. Read the full outdoor lighting installation page.
If you are planning the kind of work this covers, Keil Electric installs recessed lighting (can lights, wafer LEDs, retrofit kits) across San Diego County and the Austin metro. We pick IC-rated housings where insulation is in contact, retrofit-rated thin LEDs in finished ceilings, and code-compliant dimmable LED drivers. Layout planned for even coverage and minimal hot spots. Read the full recessed lighting installation page.
It is common to need more than one of these at once, especially on older homes or commercial buildings where one underlying issue surfaces in several places. We bundle the work under a single scope and a single permit when the project lines up that way, which usually saves time and money versus running each as a separate visit. If you are not sure which page fits, pick the closest one or call. We will sort it out.
Pick the job that matches what you need. Each one is a licensed install with the same written warranty as the rest of our work.
We confirm the fixture rating, weight, and mounting needs before any install. Standard ceiling boxes handle up to 50 lbs. Fan-rated boxes are required for ceiling fans regardless of weight per NEC 314.27(C). Heavier chandeliers need structural support beyond a standard box. We replace the box during the install when the existing one cannot support the fixture.
Recessed installs depend on ceiling type, joist spacing, insulation, and existing wiring. Most modern installs use 4-inch or 6-inch can-less LED fixtures rated for IC (in-contact-with-insulation) installation. We confirm clearances and verify the ceiling cavity supports the fixture before cutting.
Mismatched dimmer-LED combinations cause flicker, hum, or short bulb life. We check the manufacturer's dimmer compatibility list before installing and document the dimmer mode (forward-phase vs reverse-phase) in the written scope. Multi-fixture dimming circuits need consistent driver topology across fixtures.
Outdoor work follows different rules than interior. Wet-location-rated fixtures, weather-sealed connections, GFCI protection per NEC 210.8(A)(3), proper drip loops, and direct-burial cable or conduit per the install method. Low-voltage landscape uses a transformer with voltage-drop accounted for on long runs.
Most smart switches require a neutral at the switch box per NEC 404.2(C). Older homes often lack the neutral, which limits product selection or triggers a wiring upgrade. We verify the wiring at each switch box before recommending a specific smart product.
We walk through the rooms with the homeowner, document existing circuits and switch locations, confirm fixture choices, and identify any structural or wiring constraints.
For each fixture location, we confirm the existing electrical box is rated for the fixture weight and type. Boxes that need replacement or new boxes for new locations are documented in the scope.
We verify each LED fixture against the dimmer's compatibility list and document the recommended dimmer model. For multi-fixture circuits, we confirm consistent driver topology.
New circuits, panel modifications, and significant outdoor wiring trigger permits. Like-for-like fixture replacement on existing circuits typically does not. We tell the homeowner at quote.
New wiring runs first (where applicable), then boxes, then fixtures and devices. For recessed installs we cut the ceiling, run the wire, mount the fixtures, and patch as needed.
Power up the circuits, verify dimmer behavior across the full range, confirm color temperature matches across fixtures, and walk the homeowner through every switch and control.
Not every job requires a permit. When the local AHJ requires one, we pull it, schedule the inspection, and stay with the job until it passes. No paperwork on you.
5-year written warranty on lights, fixtures, ceiling fans. Parts and labor. Stays with the home and transfers to the next owner.
Lighting safety is mostly about mounting and ratings. Don't hang ceiling fans or heavy fixtures from boxes that aren't rated for the load. fan-rated boxes are required by NEC 314.27(C). Don't use dry-rated fixtures in damp or wet locations (bathroom showers, outdoor exposed). Don't install recessed cans rated non-IC against insulation; use IC-rated fixtures or maintain manufacturer-specified clearance. Don't run line-voltage outdoor wiring without GFCI protection on the circuit per NEC 210.8(A)(3). Don't mix incompatible dimmers and LEDs. flicker is annoying, but heat from a forced incompatible match can shorten bulb life dramatically. Verify the manufacturer's compatibility list before purchase. For smart switches, confirm the neutral conductor at the switch box before specifying a product that requires one.
Real work from our San Diego and Austin shops. Same standards, same warranty, every job.
For lighting installation, here's the honest comparison. We'd tell you the same thing if we weren't trying to win the job.
Lighting installation looks simple from the outside. Pick a fixture, mount it, wire it, done. The reality is that the install path depends on six things the homeowner usually doesn’t think about until the electrician shows up: what the ceiling is made of, where the existing wiring runs, what the switching plan is, what the dimmer compatibility looks like, what the room’s actual light levels need to be, and (for outdoor work) what the wet-location rating requires.
We start every lighting project by separating the install from the design. The install is the physical work. running the wire, mounting the fixture, terminating the connections. The design is the lighting plan. fixture type, beam angle, color temperature, switching, and how the lighting works with the room’s natural light. Many projects need both. Some only need the install if the homeowner has already worked with a designer or has a clear plan.
The fixtures themselves split into a few common categories. Recessed (cans, can-less LEDs, retrofit kits), surface-mounted (flush mounts, semi-flush, schoolhouse), pendant (hardwired or plug-in), track and rail, ceiling fans with light kits, vanity fixtures, and outdoor (wall-mount, post, landscape). Each category has different mounting and wiring requirements.
Recessed lighting is the default for general illumination in modern homes. Most installs use 4-inch or 6-inch can-less LED fixtures rated for IC contact (in contact with insulation). The fixture mounts directly to the joists or to a hat-channel, the LED driver lives in the ceiling cavity, and the fixture itself is low-profile. Older recessed cans (5-inch and 6-inch metal housings) work but are less efficient and generate more heat.
Surface-mounted fixtures are the right choice when the ceiling is too thin for recessed (2×4 ceiling joists with no cavity), when the ceiling is concrete or finished in a way that prohibits cutting, or when the design calls for a visible fixture as a statement piece. Surface fixtures need a properly-rated electrical box behind them, sized for the fixture’s weight and any heat output.
Pendants hang from a chase nipple or a stem and are typically used over kitchen islands, dining tables, and entryways. The mounting requires either an existing ceiling box that can support the pendant’s weight (some fixtures exceed 50 lbs) or a fan-rated box installed during the project.
Every ceiling fixture mounts to an electrical box per NEC 314. The box has to be the right type for the fixture (standard ceiling box for light fixtures up to 50 lbs, fan-rated box for ceiling fans regardless of weight per NEC 314.27(C)) and the right size for the wires in the box (box fill calc per NEC 314.16).
The most common mounting failures come from undersized boxes. A standard plastic ceiling box rated for 35 lbs cannot support a 60-lb chandelier. The fix is either a fan-rated box (rated up to 70 lbs) or a properly anchored steel pancake box with a structural support. We check the box on the site visit and replace it during the install if it can’t support the fixture.
For ceiling fans, the rule is simpler: fan-rated box, every time, no exceptions. Fan-rated boxes have additional structural support to handle the dynamic loads of a spinning fan plus the static weight.
Modern LED fixtures are mostly dimmable, but the dimmer has to match the fixture. Mismatched dimmer-LED combinations cause flicker, hum, popping at the bottom of the dim range, or short bulb life. The fix is to verify the manufacturer’s dimmer compatibility list before installing.
Two common dimmer types matter: forward-phase (also called leading-edge) and reverse-phase (trailing-edge). Forward-phase is the older standard, designed for incandescent and many older LED drivers. Reverse-phase is gentler on modern LED drivers and produces less flicker. Many newer dimmers are dual-mode and auto-detect the load.
For homes with multiple fixtures on a single dimmer, the math has to work. Total LED wattage must be within the dimmer’s minimum and maximum range, and the LED driver topology has to be consistent across the fixtures. We document the switching and dimming plan before the install and verify after.
Smart switches and dimmers replace standard wall devices and add wireless control via a hub or directly via Wi-Fi. The wiring requirement is usually a neutral conductor at the switch box per NEC 404.2(C), which older homes often lack. Switches without a neutral can use battery-backed designs or “no-neutral” smart switches that have specific load limitations.
For multi-location switching (3-way, 4-way), smart switches require either a specific multi-location product set or a master/companion configuration. We confirm the existing wiring at the switch boxes before recommending a specific product.
Outdoor lighting splits into line-voltage (120V) and low-voltage (12V/24V) systems. Line-voltage handles wall-mounted fixtures, post lights, and floods that need significant output. Low-voltage handles path lights, accent lights, and most landscape applications. The wiring rules are different for each.
Line-voltage outdoor wiring requires wet-location-rated fixtures, weather-sealed connections (typically with silicone-filled wire connectors per UL 486D), GFCI protection per NEC 210.8(A)(3), and proper drip loops on the cable entries. Outdoor branch circuits need conduit or direct-burial cable rated for the install method.
Low-voltage landscape wiring uses a transformer to step down from 120V. The transformer mounts on an exterior wall or in a weather-rated enclosure, and the LV wiring runs to the fixtures via direct-burial cable. The 100-foot voltage-drop calculation matters: long runs need larger cable to keep the fixtures at design brightness.
Lighting work requires a permit when new circuits are added, when the panel is modified, or when significant outdoor wiring is run. Like-for-like fixture replacement on existing circuits typically does not require a permit. We tell the homeowner which scope triggers a permit at quote.
Inspections cover fixture mounting, box sizing per NEC 314.16, dimmer compatibility documentation when called for, GFCI protection on outdoor and bathroom circuits, and proper bonding of metal fixtures.
A like-for-like fixture replacement (existing wiring, existing box) runs 30 minutes to 2 hours per fixture. New recessed lighting installation in a finished ceiling runs 1-2 hours per fixture. Outdoor lighting projects with multiple fixtures and trenching can run multiple days.
Pick the fixtures before we arrive. Returns and exchanges add days. Verify the dimmer is on the manufacturer’s compatibility list. Decide on color temperature (2700K for warm, 3000K-3500K for neutral, 4000K+ for daylight) before purchase. switching color temperature mid-install means returning fixtures.
Most lighting installs combine two or three categories of fixture. Knowing which category serves which need keeps the scope clean.
Even illumination across the room. The fixture you walk into a dark room and turn on. Examples: ceiling-mount fixtures, recessed cans distributed across the ceiling, large pendants in open spaces. NEC 410 governs fixture installation generally; NEC 314.27 governs ceiling box ratings (paddle fans need fan-rated boxes).
Concentrated light where work happens. Kitchen counter undercabinet, vanity sconces flanking a bathroom mirror, desk lamps, reading lamps next to a sitting area. Task lighting is often on a separate switch from ambient so the homeowner can light only the work area without flooding the room.
Highlight light for art, architectural details, or atmosphere. Picture lights, wall-wash fixtures, recessed cans aimed at a wall feature, low-voltage landscape lighting along a path. Accent lighting is usually dimmable and on its own switch, controllable independently of ambient and task.
The fixture itself is the design element, chandeliers, sculptural pendants, vintage Edison-bulb fixtures. Often combined with ambient (the chandelier provides ambient light) or accent (decorative wall sconces). NEC 314.27 ratings matter for any fixture above a normal ceiling box weight.
One of the most common service calls we get is “my LED bulbs flicker on the dimmer.” The cause is almost always LED-dimmer mismatch. The fix:
We carry Lutron and Leviton dimmer lines as standard and match them to the fixtures during the install scope.
Smart-lighting systems range from individual smart switches to full whole-home control. The categories:
WiFi or hub-connected switches that replace standard switches at the wall box. Most require a neutral wire at the switch, older switch boxes wired with switch-loop topology often lack a neutral, which limits compatibility. Some smart switches work without neutral but typically have load minimums and reduced features. We confirm switch box wiring before specifying a smart switch.
The bulb itself contains the smart hardware. Plug into any standard fixture, control via app or voice. Works without rewiring or switch replacement but the homeowner has to leave the wall switch on for the smart features to function. Power-cycling the wall switch loses the smart connection until the bulb reconnects.
Lutron RadioRA 2/3, Crestron, Control4, and similar systems integrate lighting with audio/video, HVAC, and security. The hardware lives in a centralized panel; in-wall keypads and remotes replace standard switches. The wiring is similar to standard residential but with a system controller hub. Best installed during new construction or major remodel.
Outdoor lighting has its own code requirements per NEC 210.8(A)(3) (GFCI on outdoor receptacles), NEC 410.10 (fixtures in wet/damp locations), and NEC 590 (temporary installations). The categories:
Commercial lighting work shares the basics of residential but with different code sections, control requirements, and energy compliance:
Commercial scopes are coordinated with the architect, the lighting designer (if separate), and the AHJ on energy-code compliance. We handle small commercial lighting jobs directly and team with consulting engineers on larger projects.
Smart lighting installs are a growing share of our work: smart switches with neutrals, smart dimmers compatible with LED bulbs, scene controllers, motion-sensor switches, and platform-tied controls (Lutron Caseta, Leviton Decora Smart, Kasa, Hue) that integrate with the rest of a smart home setup. The trick on older homes is the neutral wire, many switch boxes were wired without neutrals because the original switch did not need one. We pull a neutral, install a no-neutral-required smart switch, or recommend a different control approach based on the wall.
Ceiling fan installation is one of the most common lighting-adjacent jobs. We pull a fan-rated box and brace it to the joist before mounting the fan, then run the fan and light kit on separate switches when the homeowner wants independent control. For older homes with no overhead box at all, we pull a new circuit from the panel to the ceiling location and mount a fan-rated box. Recessed lighting, can lights, and fixture replacements are the rest of the standard lighting scope.
Most ceilings allow recessed lighting, but joist spacing, insulation type, and fixture rating (IC vs non-IC) all matter. We confirm the ceiling type and verify clearance during the scoping visit.
Yes. Customer-supplied fixtures are welcome. We do verify the fixture rating, the mounting support, and any required wiring changes before installation.
Yes. Outdoor lighting requires wet- or damp-rated fixtures, weather-sealed wire connections, and GFCI-protected circuits. Landscape lighting often runs on low-voltage and uses a transformer to step down from line voltage.
Often yes. We install fan-rated boxes that support the weight and movement of a ceiling fan. If the existing wiring is not rated for fan + light, we run the additional conductor as part of the install.
Both locations install smart switches and dimmers. We verify dimmer-bulb-fixture compatibility ahead of the install to avoid flicker, hum, or short bulb life.
Yes. Smart switches, smart dimmers, scene controllers, motion-sensor switches, and platform-tied controls (Lutron Caseta, Leviton Decora Smart, Kasa, Hue) are all standard scope. Older homes often need a neutral wire pulled to the switch box first; we tell you the path before quoting.
Yes. Ceiling fan installation includes pulling a fan-rated box where the existing box is not rated, bracing to the joist, separate fan and light controls when wanted, and remote receiver setup. For homes with no overhead box, we pull a new circuit from the panel.
Sometimes. Not all LED bulbs dim cleanly on every dimmer. We verify bulb-and-dimmer compatibility before installing or recommend a tested combination.
Yes. Both retrofit (in finished ceilings) and new-construction recessed lighting are standard scope. We size for ceiling height, room layout, and bulb spec.
Pick the location closest to your property to reach the local team and request a real plan.
